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epiphanies and tall tales.

Category: surfing

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So there I was camping at the beach. I was freezing after a morning surf session. And then drives by the Camp Host yelling out, “Free coffee.” The coffee wagon was sponsored by Yuban Pacific Coast Blend. They donate to the California State Parks and the camp host serves it. Of course, being the interactive [...]

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During a surf session out in the big and mushy waves last week, a crusty old fellow gave me the best compliment I could ever receive: “Girl, you’ve got cojones.” On my previous wave, I took a late takeoff and went straight down the face for Mr.-Toad’s-Wild-Ride. I barely made it. But sometimes, barely is [...]

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In support of Blog Action Day 2010 Water Here in the paradise known as San Diego, we live in a desert, importing up to 80% of our water. Yet it’s easy to take water for granted. You turn on the tap and water comes out. Right? But would we use water differently if we had [...]

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06-03-2010 :: admin // surfing
Of Waves, Water and Women.

A guest post I did for Athleta Sportswear, a division of the Gap. Friends that play together, stay together. Sometimes I like to joke that I haven’t made any friends since elementary school. I have, but two of my best friends are still my oldest friends. (Old meaning length of time.) I grew up around [...]

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During a surf session out in the big and mushy waves last week, a crusty old fellow gave me the best compliment I could ever receive: “Girl, you’ve got cojones.” On my previous wave, I took a late takeoff and went straight down the face for Mr.-Toad’s-Wild-Ride. I barely made it. But sometimes, barely is [...]

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This was a fun blog post I wrote for Athleta, a division of the Gap. Read it here.

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